SA-WA-The Nullarbor Links

When we signed up at the Information Centre in Ceduna to play the Nullarbor Links, we paid $50.00 each and received our score cards and a piece of wetsuit fabric about 12” x 12” with a small hole in the middle....wondering why we would need such a thing.

After seeing the first hole we knew why. There is no grass at all. The tee off area is a small platform covered in astroturf, as is the green. All the holes have the same tee off platform, different shaped greens but between is vastly different. Once you are on the fairway you place your green piece of wetsuit fabric on the ground, put your tee in the hole, ball on top, select your club, hit the ball and keep your fingers crossed that you will be able to find it.

Some of the fairways are all salt bush, some are trees and bushes, some are cleared red dirt fairway with a few tufts of something growing here and there. One has a sign warning of snakes and we saw a Red Belly Black, another has “tree traps” instead of sand traps- they have bulldozed a few trees and piled them together at a couple of places on the course. The funniest one was a large bulls-eye that we could see between the trees, which was showing us where the flag and green were.

The flies were so bad when we played at Norseman that I had to bring out the “fly veil.” It looks ridiculous but saves the flies from driving you crazy.
Your card is stamped at each hole which is usually beside a roadhouse and then you are presented with a certificate at the Information Centre at Kalgoorlie.
We have really enjoyed the last three days. It was a great laugh and gave us something to look forward to every 100 klms or so and made the trip go quickly. The total journey was 1641 klms. It truly is the longest golf course in the world.

SA-Eyre Peninsula-Ceduna

Ceduna is the last major centre before heading across the Nullabor to Western Australia. I stayed here for five days while Mike travelled to Brisbane for a seminar.
I stayed at the down town caravan park so I could walk to the shops, out to the jetty to watch the people fishing. Around the foreshore they have built a wonderful 4klm walking and biking track which takes you to Thevenard. Here ships are loaded with gypsum, salt, and grain from across the west coast. These docks are also shared with a small fleet of fishing vessels.
I made a daily trip out here either on bike or walking enjoying the beauty of the bay.
Ceduna also has a rich Aboriginal community with many of their beautiful paintings and crafts on display.
Each night the sunsets were spectacular and no two were the same. I would sit outside the caravan with a champagne and watch the magic unfolding and feeling so grateful to have the opportunity to view these stunning colours dance across the sky.

Cactus Beach is about 90klms west of Ceduna and is an iconic surfing beach where surfers come from all over the world to test their skills. Just before you reach the beach you travel beside some massive sand dunes and a few salt lakes. The ocean was calm the day I visited which meant that unfortunately there were no surfers to watch.
Our next job is to fill our water tanks as we plan to free camp across the Nullabor. We will also sign up to play the Nullabor Links which is the worlds longest golf course, Ceduna to Kalgoorlie, a distance of 1365 klms. We were wondering if there would be any grass!

SA-Eyre Peninsula-Streaky Bay

Streaky Bay is surrounded by wheat fields and is a major centre for grain, wool, fat lambs, oysters, abalone and scallops. Granite mining is also a significant local industry. The area is aptly named as the bands of colour in the water are obvious. Apparently they are due to the oils given of from certain types of sea weed.
This delightful coastal town is a great place to stock up on food and has two grocery stores to choose from which is a real treat. There is also a large array of other shops.
The jetty area has a swimming net beside it and as the shark alarm went off twice while we were here, you wouldn’t want to swim any where else. One afternoon we watched a shark cruise from one end of the beach to the other very close to shore. He was estimated at being about 12 foot long.
Mike and our friends, Steve and Ian went fishing at nearby Hallys beach and caught enough salmon for us all to have several meals. We made Thai fish cakes with our share and have another batch in the freezer. While we were out watching the men fishing, the dolphins blessed us with their presence and surfed the waves. I never tire of watching them. They are so graceful.
Back at the caravan park the pelicans and seagulls line up for dinner whenever anybody is cleaning fish. They jostle for the front row and get quite pushy with each other. Fun to watch.
We found a unique way to spend “cocktail hour” while here. We took our beach chairs out into the bay and spent some very pleasant time chatting in the calm warm water. As with most of these bays it is very shallow and clear quite a way from shore. Too shallow for the sharks to reach. We hope anyway!
We loved every moment of our week here and are now heading to Ceduna where I will be by myself for five days as Mike attends a seminar in Brisbane.

SA-Eyre Peninsula-Baird Bay

Baird Bay is an isolated fishing village on the west coast, about 50klms south of where we were staying at Streaky. The Bay and its surrounds offer fishing, bush walking, bird watching, and the incredible opportunity to swim with dolphins and sea lions in their natural habitat.
We arrived at the modern rammed earth buildings that are the head quarters if the Ocean Eco Experience. We were fitted with wetsuits, walked out to the boat and headed with great excitement out to hopefully find the dolphins. Because we are out in the wild, seeing the dolphins is never gauranteed. But, it was our lucky day. As we were getting our snorkels on we watched Troy attach an electronic anklet which deters the sharks. The pulse is effective for eight metres. Wonder where I was when we were in the water? You guessed it. I was glued to Troy the entire time. Obviously sharks are attracted to seals and the dolphins and we were in their territory. There were about eight dolphins, including a mother and baby. One of the dolphins had a split dorsal fin and a nasty hollow on one side due to an old shark injury. They swam around us, upside down under us and coming in very close to check us out. When they decided to move on we headed to another area of the bay to see the seals.
When we arrived they were all lying on the rocks sunning themselves. Many of the babies were nursing while mum was fast asleep. Some of the young males were trying to wake up other seals to come and play. There is a large natural pool where the seals were swimming and we joined them. They come right up to you, wanting to play and I’m sure they are wondering why we are so sluggish in the water compared to them. They were swimming around us upside down and coming right up to our masks to have a “peek” inside. We ended up having about six swimming around us.
What an incredible experience. Thank you Trixie and Vic for telling us about this. I could certainly do it again, and again, and again.
We are so thankful to the dolphins and sea lions for allowing us to join them in their home under the waves and give us such a heart warming day.

Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience
Ph: 08 8626 5017
website:www.bairdbay.com

SA-Eyre Peninsula-Venus Bay

Venus Bay is a popular holiday destination for many of the Eyre Peninsula locals, especially the keen fishermen. When we drove in to the caravan park it seemed as though nearly every caravan had a tinny. Our camping spot was right on the bay and we enjoyed watching the pelicans come in to land when the tide was out. The birds stood on the small rocks on the shoreline instead of on the sand. I don’t think that they wanted to get their feet wet. It was hilarious.
Venus Bay has many inlets and waterways perfect for all of these fishermen. King George Whiting is the preferred fish and it has become our favourite. Nice mild fish.
During our stay here the ocean was calm but apparently this area is well known for its’ huge waves.
Years ago many paddocks in the area were edged with stonewalls that were built by the chinese and also prisoners. Because the ground here is so rocky this would seem like a useful way to clear the fields. This building method is called Dry Stone Walling and you can certainly appreciate their skill and how hard they had to work to build them. When you look closely at the ground it is amazing that wheat can grow in it at all. It seems there is more rock than dirt, very similar to what we noticed on the Yorke Peninsula.
Our weather is still glorious, every day is about 28-low 30’s. We haven’t seen rain in so long we have almost forgotten what it feels like.
Next stop Streaky Bay.

SA-Eyre Peninsula-Elliston

Heading north from Coffin Bay we arrive at another charming seaside town, Elliston. The town is set on the shores of Waterloo Bay with spectacular surrounding ocean- side cliffs and crystal clear water which looks so inviting.
As many of the cliff tops have large overhangs, there are signs that warn you not to drive too close to the edge. Recently, just north of here, a young girl fell from a cliff edge while watching the sea lions so the warnings are obviously there for a reason. Dangerous territory!
The area has a biennial art festival which encourages local and national artists to create sculptures along Elliston’s Great Ocean Drive. It was interesting driving the 12klms and stopping to view and read about the art and artists along the way.
As well as wheat farming and sheep, the area is well known for fishing. Locks Well is a stunning surf fishing beach, renowned for salmon, and only keen fisherman or crazy tourists such as ourselves are keen enough to negotiate the man made stairway down to the beach. There are 283 steps that hug the 120 metre cliff, going down is fun, but the way up the hill needs a rest stop on the way. From the beach looking up, the stairway looks like a mini wall of China.
The Talia Caves, forty klms north of Elliston, are large caverns that have been carved into the granite cliff by the action of the waves. We spent a long time here exploring the many deep rock pools. At the end of this road is the magic 20 klm long Talia beach. The sand is white, the water turquoise and so inviting. It is a breathtaking sight driving around the corner and finding this gem. We went swimming here with friends Di and Steve and had to pinch ourselves that we weren’t dreaming. It was magic.

SA-Eyre Peninsula-Coffin Bay

The west of the Eyre Peninsula is in contrast to the flatter coast and calmer waters of the eastern seaboard.
The spectacular rugged cliffs, stunning beaches with occasional wild surf makes you look forward to finding out what is around the next corner, and it is never disappointing. It just keeps getting better.
Coffin Bay is only 46 klms from Port Lincoln. It actually took us longer to pack up than it did to drive to this short distance.
This area has many waterways, bays, channels and inlets for fishing and a multitude of water sports. This area would have to be a fisherman's dream with rock, surf, jetty and boat fishing. Mike and Steve, who we recently met at Port Lincoln, fished off the rocks while his wife Di and myself laid on the beach enjoying the stunning weather and swimming. Great way to spend an afternoon for all of us. Unfortunately, no fish that day.
Coffin Bay oysters are well known on the Peninsula and we have spent many evenings enjoying them kilpatrick style with a margarita, or two.
Coffin Bay National Park is close to town and has huge sand dunes sculptured by the wind. There is a 40klm 4WD track but we had heard that is was very challenging in parts so decided to give it a miss. The gravel roads in the park gave us good access to the highlight spots.

SA-Eyre Peninsula, Cowell to Port Lincoln

The eastern coast of the Eyre Peninsula is on the Spencer Gulf and has many beautiful bays and jetties, many of which were used in the early days to load grain and wool from the local farms to be taken to Adelaide. In turn, goods and fertilisers were unloaded for use in the area. Most of the jetties are now used for fishing by the locals and visitors. The towns we stayed at were Cowell, Arno Bay and Tumby Bay.
Today, local seafood is one of the Eyres’ many attractions. Bluefin tuna, oysters and murray cod are farmed and processed and there are a variety of tours available to view the farming and sample the products.
We stayed at Port Lincoln for five days as there was so much to see and do in the area.
When we first arrived the local Tunarama festival was in full swing. One of the highlights of the three days is the “world famous” Tuna tossing competition. There are male and female categorys and each contestant tosses the 8 kilo tuna as far as they can. The winners, with the longest toss, receive $1,000.00 first prize and a trophy of a tuna and second place is $500.00. The winning males toss was just over a very respectable 20 metres. So practice up, you too could enter the event.
We spent a wonderful couple of hours on a tour of the marina in an electric boat. The trip was very informative as we moved along the prawn and tuna boats as well as viewing the many beautiful homes on the waterways. The massive prawn trawlers are only in use about 55 days per year. It is amazing that they catch enough prawns in that short time to make such a good living.
The tuna industry along with the triple Melbourne Cup winner Makybe Diva have certainly put Port Lincoln on the map. There is a statue of the great horse on the foreshore and people from the area are very proud of her.
The tuna industry itself is very fascinating. The tuna are caught at sea in huge nets, towed back to the bays, transferred to a stationary floating farm where they are fed until harvest time. All along the eastern coast of the Eyre as well as in the bay areas of Port Lincoln you see many of these farms. We went out to one of these, set up as a tourist site, where we fed the tuna and then swam with them. Their teeth are small but razor sharp. One of them tried to eat my thumb as well as the fish I was holding and I had at least twenty paper thin cuts on my thumb. It looked like it had been through the mincer. But, being fine they healed in no time. Swimming with them was fascinating but we were a little fearful that they may turn into piranhas so we didn’t stay in very long. After the swim, we sampled some tuna sashimi with wasabi and soy and it was delicious. (That was pay back for my thumb.)
We drove around Lincoln National Park and were in awe of the endless bays and aqua blue waters. Every where was like post card scenery.

We can highly recommend:
Close Up Tuna Tours
Ph:0488 428 862
www.adventurebaycharters.com.au

Marina Boat Cruises
0427 826 853

Sa- Flinders Ranges

We left Clare, heading west towards the Eyre Peninsula and as the next few days were to be in the low 30’s we decided to visit the Flinders Ranges as we had heard so much about their beauty.
Heading towards our destination, Wilpena Pound, we passed through the lovely old towns of Quorn and Hawker. Between Quorn and Port Augusta the Pichi Richi railway runs steam train journeys on the weekends between April and October. It would be a lovely trip through the many gorges and viewing the spectacular ranges.
The weather, however, did not go according to plan. The day we arrived it was in the mid 30’s so we spent the afternoon by the pool. The next day it was in the 40’s, so rather than the bush walks that we had planned, we drove around the area on some of the many four wheel drive tracks. We traveled over 160klms through gorges, over the hills and around Wilpena Pound which is probably the most well known part of the park. It is shaped like a giant crater, 17 klm x 8 klm which was formed by an ancient mountain eroding away over 600 million years.
There were many ruins throughout the park, made from local rock and stone,which shows how harsh living in this area would have been for the early settlers. Wherever you look, there is something interesting to see.
As well as four wheel drive tracks there are many walking and bicycle trails. One of these is a 200 klm loop around the National park for mountain bike enthusiasts.
The northern town of Parachilna, is known in the area for its’ pub which has a dish called the “feral plate”. This includes camel, kangaroo, emu and local produce. I have been told that it is delicious. The pub was closed the day that we were there so we didn’t have the opportunity to sample. Instead we went to the Blinman pub and had one of their delicious lamb burgers. This particular pubs’ claim to fame is the Camp Oven “cook off”. Competitors from all over the world arrive in October chasing the $5,000.00 prize to create a gourmet meal in the traditional Australian camp oven.
We have been told that the Flinders area is stunning in spring when the wild flowers are in bloom. That would be something to see. We’ll have to put that in diary for another year.